Catch can

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LokiWolf

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Don't waste your money. The newer eco boost engines have port injection rather than direct injection.
Nope, you would be incorrect.
and I'm glad I learned about this from another fellow.
Whoever told you that was 100% incorrect.

The Gen2 3.5(Gen 4 - 2018+ Expeditions) Twin Turbo Ecoboost motor has BOTH port and direct. Under MOST situations the direct injectors are used, because of the more accurate fuel metering that can be delivered. Port is used for Cold startups, and under low load. The DI picks ups once up to operating temp and high loads, and under real high load and demands for fuel, both injectors are used.

Edit: Clarity on above. So basically when you are a greatest risk for deposits(High Temp and under load) the motor is in DI mode, and you are getting ZERO washing of the valves from the fuel.

It does not remove the need for a catch can. Heck some of the most powerful Port injected motors on sale today come with them(Some Hellcats), and are highly recommended in many port injected applications also. The port injectors even being used sometimes does help to decrease the buildup of deposits, but does not remove the risk. A catch can prevents the majority of what causes the deposits from ever getting to where it can cause them. PERIOD. A catch can is NOT about the short term, but the long term.
 
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5280tunage

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Nope, you would be incorrect.

Whoever told you that was 100% incorrect.

The Gen2 3.5(Gen 4 - 2018+ Expeditions) Twin Turbo Ecoboost motor has BOTH port and direct. Under MOST situations the direct injectors are used, because of the more accurate fuel metering that can be delivered. Port is used for Cold startups, and under low load. The DI picks ups once up to operating temp and high loads, and under real high load and demands for fuel, both injectors are used.

It does not remove the need for a catch can. Heck some of the most powerful Port injected motors on sale today come with them(Some Hellcats), and are highly recommended in many port injected applications also. The port injectors even being used sometimes does help to decrease the buildup of deposits, but does not remove the risk. A catch can prevents the majority of what causes the deposits from ever getting to where it can cause them. PERIOD. A catch can is NOT about the short term, but the long term.
Loki,

I completely understand the catch can justification and have a JLT can that's been great for me, and catches quite a bit every oil change. One thing that I find interesting is that most of them for these only handles the passenger side, which I know is where the majority of the oil may collect, but is there any real value in both sides? Definitely see the dual pipe or dual can systems a lot more on the big V8's, but just curious why so many only target one side of a symmetrical system.

Thanks.
 

wingrider

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I have a JLT separator on my upgraded GT500 and it does catch a little oil. In my case it keeps it from contaminating my supercharger.
 

LokiWolf

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Loki,

I completely understand the catch can justification and have a JLT can that's been great for me, and catches quite a bit every oil change. One thing that I find interesting is that most of them for these only handles the passenger side, which I know is where the majority of the oil may collect, but is there any real value in both sides? Definitely see the dual pipe or dual can systems a lot more on the big V8's, but just curious why so many only target one side of a symmetrical system.

Thanks.
There is a value in both sides, most definitely, in my brain though is a cost vs return, and install complexity. As you know installing a kit well engineered for one side like the J&L is easy. It can be removed as quickly if not quicker if needed. Passenger side kit catches the majority, but a dual kit will catch more, but only slightly more. The install is more involved, and the kits are at least 2x more expensive. Yes they are better and will catch more, but maybe 10% more and that is being generous. For me it was a bang for the buck, and the J&L is stupid simple to install.

Want to catch more and do even more to prevent deposits get a good dual kit Like RXP, UPR, or Mishimoto. I really like the design of the Mishimoto kit because of how it locates the cans together on one plate.


The RXP kit is NICE too. Those kits start high, and if you add the braided lines and a few small upgrades you are at like $700+.

Mishimoto also has a single can setup that is priced similar to J&L. I will stick with J&L. They are located in my State(VA), and do great work. Only had an issue with one kit(My Explorer) where one of the lines was tight. They sent me a replacement the next day. Great customer service and an American company. Win/Win for me.
 

m3olsen

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J&L is by far the best bang for the buck. Looks like they are recommending the same kit as the 150 PowerBoost for the 22 Expeditions. Something about the cover and hose routing.

@LokiWolf what are you thoughts on J&L's standard 3oz can vs optional 6oz? You mentioned you usually change yours at oil changes, which would be my plan. I will likely plan for those at 5K or 6K. I'm in Central NY so we do have cold winters, but not as cold as some. Any guidance you can provide? I wouldn't have even thought about it but one of the four reviews on J&L site said he was filling up quickly and anxious to get the 6 oz can.
 

LokiWolf

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@LokiWolf what are you thoughts on J&L's standard 3oz can vs optional 6oz? You mentioned you usually change yours at oil changes, which would be my plan. I will likely plan for those at 5K or 6K. I'm in Central NY so we do have cold winters, but not as cold as some. Any guidance you can provide? I wouldn't have even thought about it but one of the four reviews on J&L site said he was filling up quickly and anxious to get the 6 oz can.
I have never had issue with it being close to full with the smaller can. Now I live in Central VA, and I do see more in the can in Winter. Not going to hurt anything to have the 6, just means you don't have to worry about it even longer. I probably would swing for the 6 if I did it again, only for the fact you have a little more to grip when spinning it off. I recycled the can from my previous setup, just got new hoses and bracket from J&L.
 

m3olsen

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I have never had issue with it being close to full with the smaller can. Now I live in Central VA, and I do see more in the can in Winter. Not going to hurt anything to have the 6, just means you don't have to worry about it even longer. I probably would swing for the 6 if I did it again, only for the fact you have a little more to grip when spinning it off. I recycled the can from my previous setup, just got new hoses and bracket from J&L.
Perfect thank you @LokiWolf for sharing your thoughts!
 

5280tunage

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I second Loki's statement on volume. I've never been more than half full and I am typically right around that 6k miiles per change. I suppose if you were absolutely crushing your engine non-stop, it's possible, but I would say it takes less than 5 minutes to empty, so you could do it several times here and there till you got comfortable with it.
 
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