Power running board is shot

[Alberstadt]

How difficult is it to replace the motor on these running boards? Passenger side went out. anyone have advice? I got the new motor.

 

[Gary Waugh]

As stated at the start of this thread, the motor unit is actually mounted by 3 bolts plus another bolt that tightens a wedge to lock the step mechanism to the motor unit output shaft. These 4 bolts and the electrical connector are very easy to remove. However the problem remains getting the motor unit output shaft to slide/come out of the step mechanism. I tried with heat and hammers and nothing worked, I eventually cut the shaft with an angle grinder and then removed the motor unit and tapped the remaining (cut off) part of the shaft out of the mechanism. I still have no idea why it would not slide out as it came very easily once I cut the shaft!! Installing the new motor unit was very quick and easy and the new unit is very quiet compared to the old unit and much lighter, time will tell how reliable it is, but as stated, apart from sliding the drive shaft out of the step mechanism, this is a really easy job. I actually removed the entire step from the car (just 8 bolts) so that it was easier to access the motor unit and mounting bolts, but it's not really required, but does make it easier.. The entire job took me about an hour for the drivers side (Passenger side still works fine, but I now notice how noisy it is compared to the repaired drivers side!! so I may change it soon just because the noise bothers me!).

Gary

 

[jeff kushner]

We've gone over this several times but for those that haven't seen, Motorcycle chain lube is one of the best lubricants for this because it sprays on very, very thin and penetrates well before the "carrier" fluid evaporate leaving a high quality lube behind....Wash, let dry for a day or so , then spray!

Nearly all of these cases appear to be "linkage/gear failure oriented.

jeff

 

[Powerplay]

We have a 2012 Expy EL with the passenger side running board not retracting up. Replaced the motor, cleaned the moving parts and bracket. The running board starts to go up then stops, will go up all the way with my help. It appears there is an idler assembly that helps move the board equally. There is possibly some corrosion preventing the board assembly from moving smoothly. Does anyone know if the idler assembly can be purchased as new Aftermarket? Not looking for parts from junk yard/used.

Front mud flaps would help this design from Ford factory as standard with power boards motor behind front tires.

Hope post is in correct thread.

Thank you,
B

 

[jeff kushner]

You may be able to "breath new life" into your sagging RB if you spend some time underneath, with a soft wire brush....obviously, be very careful around rubber/electrics. Once cleaned, you may be able to discern where and why it is hanging up. It's my understanding that these will stop very quickly if the board meets resistance when moving.

jeff

 

[Jon1985]

When I first got my 2010 the driver side would try to go up then go back down . But after reading online some people had the same issues all you have to do is spray all the joints / connections penetrating oil once and awhile I’ve haven’t had a problem since I’ve been doing that .

 

[Powerplay]

Replaced the motor, cleaned and lubricated moving parts..it’s as if the idler assembly or board may be slightly bent or sagging enough that the motor safety feature takes over then won’t allow the motor to completely retract board. Noticed a symptom when board goes down when door is opened, about half way going to completely down/out position the board flops as if it’s not coupled??? Could the replacement motor be defective? Why would board flop down half way through the cycle as if it’s moving freely for a moment due to gravity.

 

[coupe11]

"Flopping" sounds like slop. Slop makes you think of worn bushings, gears, shafts, etc. that allow uncontrolled movement.

 

[Powerplay]

Exactly, while it’s a new motor and mating gear appears fine. I’d like to also replace the idler assembly rod. Have been spraying all moving parts daily and working grease in with movement. However, it sounds like the only way to get the idler assembly is buying new running board assembly. No luck finding only the assembly new, short of going to junk yard hoping used part will work....Thank you for replies everyone. Now need to find new replacement idler assembly as the motor is new and hinges move freely.

If not repaired before the snow flys, is it better to unplug motor and leave the board in down position or up position? It’s on passenger side not being used as much as driver side.

 

[Bill Schmidt]

I just recently got my 2010 expedition ... talked to the previous owner (left docs in glove box) and he said the auto running boards died a slow death till he just put them up and left them up.

After reading here I lowered them and cleaned them up kept working in the WD40 and finally they ruan properly .... Until they didn't!!! LOL

So I finally found that for some reason they are holding a lot of water in them. (driving in rain)

and it was not weeping out very much.

I also noticed that if I just barely assisted the RB going UP it wold go just fine ... hardly any pressure ... Like it was just had a bit of extra weight... hmmmmm

So I drilled a small weep hole in it a (SEE PICTURE) ... GUSH lots of water trapped in there.

And nicely all that extra loss of weight it works fine again.

Last note ... while I was in weep hole mode. (its a thing) ... the passenger rear door actually sloshed when you moved it ... so it too had water that took forever to weep out. Good thing this is all aluminum.